Coming to a good bookshop near you – Shaping Sustainable Fashion! Edited by the wonderful Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen this book promises to be a great resource for industry, students and generally interested folk. I am also in it – one chapter on Zero-waste Fashion Practice – a bit of a “why” and “how-to” of zero-waste fashion in the “Make” section. The book is divided into 4 sections – Source, Make, Use and Last – very logical and its good to remind ourselves that there isn’t only one road to a sustainable fashion future. I can’t wait to get my copy.
Latest video by Julian Roberts – master pattern cutter, traveling creative extraordinaire.
The pants, dress and top are all from a single zero-waste pattern. I call the design approach “Embedded” zero-waste pattern design. I had intended the pattern to construct a single outfit but I think it might be a little ‘intense’… see the slide with the single mannequin and tell me what you think. The dress and top can be worn a couple of different ways – there are pulleys and ties that can be altered – and that hold everything in the right place – similar to Madeleine Vionnets approach at times. Bigger version of the pattern shown below – as you can probably tell it is a shorter/simpler (?) version of the YIELD piece I’m working on. I still have a menswear outfit to toile (again) and make the finished garments for. I’m really happy with how it is going however!
I’ve been working on my piece for YIELD for the last 9 months but really only in a focussed way the last couple of weeks since classes finished. Stripes show the different garments embedded in the one pattern. Although i gotta say they look pretty cool. I’ll be testing it next week or so and then passing it on to Genevieve Packer to develop the textile design work (and then back to me for tweaks – then back to her again until we get it right). It makes (at least thats the plan at the moment) a pair of skinny pants, a cropped tailored jacket, and a double layered tunic dress/top… but you never can tell for sure with this process. It’ll be digitally printed on linen that has good body but drapes really well – beautiful.
Tomorrow I’m going set up my temporary studio for the next 2.5 months over the summer where ill be generating work for Arti Sandhu’s exhibition in Chicago, another in Ohio, patterns for Sandra Ericson of the Centre for Pattern Design and of course YIELD. It’s going to be a sewing, cutting, pinning, summer madhouse!
The new book on eco fashion (aptly titled “Eco Fashion” by Sass Brown) arrived at my door the other day – Very excited! It is fantastic to see so many of my idols in there (looking at you Vivian Westwood!) and for me to be included in amongst such company as Alabama Chanin, Noir, Yeohlee Teng, Katharine Hamnett, Andrea Zittel etc is an honor. I’ve got to say I LOVE Josh Jakus‘ bags. Beautiful and simple and complex. Congratulations Sass Brown for a beautiful publication.
It was wonderful to see a number of the designers which will be showing in YIELD, the Zero-Waste exhibtion Timo Rissanen and myself are organising for 2011 – some of which are shown below.
The “Restraint” font is designed without letter forms. Instead there is a selection of curly, linear units that connect to each other if you know how to, and in the negative space emerges the letters… It’s amazing!
This is my entry to the Fashion Art Biennale in Seoul, Korea – sent if off today after much stress! I had to sew “Peace” twice as the first time around I was (by others doing) running late and had to sew both War and Peace in one day – and it isn’t a straightforward process.
It is made of digitally printed silk Crepe de Chine. Sewn using 3 different seams due to the crazy angles and transparency – binding, flat felled and french.
The pictured Peace is the not the one I sent as up close it’s pretty messy – fine for photographing however. Hopefully it arrives in Korea safe and sound.
I’ll save the final images of what my crazy/minimalist dresses look like till later but here is some serendipitous print development images to intrigue you! I’m already wearing the toile for Peace regularly and it feels amazing on! The goal of this project is to answer the brief for the Seoul Fashion Art Biennale in November – theme “War and Peace” and sub-theme “Co-existence”.
If you hadnt seen it already the link above takes you to a really great article on zero-waste fashion in the New York Times of all places. It covers a range of designers working in the field (including myself, Yeohlee Teng, Mark Lui, Zandra Rhodes, Julian Roberts etc) but mostly discusses why its a good idea and the course that Timo has been developing for Parsons. Such a nice feeling to see people I respect and admire getting the recognition they deserve! Timo Rissanen works so hard to further the advancement of zero-waste fashion thinking both through his own work and through encouraging others (myself included). I’m so sure that the Zero-waste Jeans Loomstate/Parsons collaboration will work brilliantly and hopefully more such zero-waste courses and collaborations between industry and education will follow. This is the beginning of a good good thing.